Single Door with Sidelites and Transom Installation Guide

Assembled Single Door with Sidelites and Transom

Before you begin...

Required Tools

Safety Glasses

Level

Speed Square

Measuring Tape

Hammer

Screwdriver

Drill

Wood Screws

Serrated Knife

Wooden Shims

Outdoor Silicone

Finishing Nailer

Saw

Door Foam

Unpacking your Entry System

Check to make sure your US Door & More package includes:

Your Door

Three lengths of Brickmolding

Three lengths of Casing

Two Side Jambs

The Header with six screws attached

The Sill with six screws attached

Sidelite(s)

Six Mullions

The Transom

If you are expecting any of these parts and they are missing or damaged, STOP and contact US Door & More.

Preparing your Rough Opening

Check the dimensions of the rough opening.
The opening should be at least 1" wider than the net frame size plus any sidelites & 1/2" taller than the net frame size plus any transoms.
Check that the floor beneath the sill is level.
Check that the rough opening is plumb and square.

Your opening may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed.

Installing your Entryway

Step 1: Constructing the Frame

Identify and remove the two side jambs, the header, and the sill.
Remove the screws from the header and sill.
Attach the header and sill to one side jamb with the provided screws, applying silicone to the joining faces.
Attach the other side jamb to the header and sill with the provided screws, applying silicone to the joining faces.
Check that the frame is properly assembled, square, and plumb.

Your frame may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed. The number of hinges and screws vary based on the dimensions of the door.

If Attaching an ADA Sill

Step 2: Assembling the Frame System

Attach the frame to the sidelite(s) with the appropriate screws (not provided) through the side jambs of the frame, and in the opposite direction through the side jambs of the sidelite(s).
Be sure to screw through shims.
Attach the transom with the appropriate screws (not provided).

Screws affix the frame firmly into place - The amount and locations you need may vary.

Step 3: Inserting the Assembly

Apply silicone to the sub-floor beneath where the sill will sit.
Check that the height of the interior flooring will sit beneath the sill.
- Lean the assembly into the rough opening, making sure the door will swing the appropriate way.
  The door will swing towards the side that the hinges will be visible from.
- Check that the sill is level.

Your assembly may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed.

Step 4: Securing the Assembly

Hammer shims between the frame + sidelite(s) and the rough opening until the assembly is tightly installed.
Shims should be paired opposite one another on either side of the frame.
Check that the installed assembly is plumb and level.

Shims are required to keep the frame rigid and in place - the amount and locations you need may vary.

Step 5: Attaching the Assembly

Attach the assembly to the rough opening with the appropriate screws (not provided) through the side jambs and the header.
Be sure to screw through shims and fully into the rough opening.

Screws affix the assembly firmly into place - The amount and locations you need may vary.

Step 6: Installing the Door

Remove the screws from the hinge slot on the door.
Placing the door within the frame, align the hinges from the frame to the hinge slots on the door.
Attach the door to the hinges using the provided screws.

Step 7: Adjusting the Sill Height

Pry off the adjustment cap from the sill and, using a screwdriver, adjust the sill height to create a proper seal.
There may be more than one screw to adjust on the sill.
Replace the adjustment cap.
Assure the door swings freely and closes tightly against the weatherstripping.

If your door system is outswing, there will not be an adjustment cap.

Step 8: Cutting the Brickmolding

Identify the provided brickmolds.
The two longer pieces will cover the gap between the side jamb and the rough opening.
The shorter piece will cover the gap between the header and the rough opening.
Using the height of the frame as reference, mark the desired height of he inner brickmold.
With a speed square, scribe a 45° line from the previous mark out towards the extra material and cut along the drawn line.
Repeat, mirrored, for the other long piece of brickmold.
On the shorter brickmold, mark the corners of the width of the frame.
With a speed square, scribe a 45° line from the previous marks towards the extra material and cut along the drawn line.

Trim for Door & Transom Entryway with an overall height over 8'

Add a custom mullion divider to obscure the seam between the door and the transom. This divider is thinner than any casing, but should have a ~1/4" greater depth than any other brickmold used in the entryway. This piece is attached by a series of pocket holes on the topside.

Step 9: Attaching the Brickmolding

Affix both long pieces of brickmold to the external sides of the doorway with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover the gap between the rough opening and the frame.
Affix the shorter brickmold to the external top of the doorway with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover the gap between the rough opening and the frame.

Your brickmold may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed. Use as many finishing nails as needed to properly secure the brickmold.

Step 10: Cutting the Casing

Identify the provided casing.
The two longer pieces will cover the gap between the side jamp and the rough opening.
The shorter piece will cover the gap between the header and the rough opening.
Using the height of the frame as reference, mark the desired height of the casing across the piece and cut.
Repeat, mirrored, for the other long piece of casing.
On the shorter casing, mark the corners of the width of the frame across the piece and cut.

Step 11: Attaching the Casing

Affix both long pieces of casing to the internal sides of the doorway with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover the gap between the rough opening and the frame.
Affix the shorter casing to the internal top of the doorway with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover the gap between the rough opening and the frame.

Your casing may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed. Use as many finishing nails as needed to properly secure the casing.

Step 12: Cutting the Horizontal Mullion(s)

Identify the provided mullion(s).
Using the height of the brickmolding or casing as reference, mark the desired height of the mullion across the piece and cut.
The mullion should span the length of the entryway and terminate into the brickmolding or casing
Repeat for any additional mullions.

The horizontal mullion(s) will cover the gap between the transom and the frame / sidelites.

Step 13: Attaching the Horizontal Mullion(s)

Affix the cut piece(s) of mullion, interior and exterior, horizontally between the transom and the frame/sidelite(s) with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover the seam between the transom and the frame/sidelite(s).

Your mullion(s) may look different than the figure depending on the door to be installed. Use as many finishing nails as needed to properly secure the mullion(s).

Step 14: Cutting the Vertical Mullion(s)

Identify the provided mullion(s).
Using the height of the brickmolding or casing as reference, mark the desired height of the mullion across the piece and cut.
The mullion should reach the ground and terminate into the brickmolding, casing, or horizontal mullion.
Repeat for any additional mullions.

Step 15: Attaching the Vertical Mullion(s)

Affiz the cut piece(s) of mullion, interior and exterior, between the sidelites or transom and the frame with finishing nails and apply silicone to the joining faces.
Make sure to cover teh seam between the sidelites/transom and the frame.